I’m a little late to Mac Margolis’ Newsweek profile of Lea T. because, to be honest, I’m so completely over this whole “trans is the hot new thing in fashion!” meme. But wow this article is seriously the worst.
The problems start in the article’s subheading:
Brazil’s hottest new model is tall, dark, and glamorous. She’s also a he.
No, she’s a she. She may have been assigned male at birth but she’s female identified, and that makes her female. Welcome to Gender 101!
The subheading goes on to describe Lea T. as “fashion’s gender-bending muse” and the article suggests fashion’s interest in “gender bending” is part of the industry’s history of being “outrageous.” Which speaks to how problematic the obsession with trans and gender non-conforming models is right now. It’s about a different, edgy, provocative androgyny, and part of the same aesthetic that has 13 year old girls posing in high fashion magazines. Not actually about respecting these models’ gender identities.
The article continues the “ZOMG chick’s really a dude!” theme with statements like, “who’d have figured that the hottest new face from Brazil is not a she at all?” Except she is!
Then we move into one of the most stereotypical examples of a trans narrative I’ve seen. Lea is trans, apparently, because she didn’t like football as a kid. Most of the article is focused not on her fashion success but her social and physical transition process. Because that’s just what we need, more childhood arguments that paint trans folks as the proof of gender essentialism – if you don’t like football you’re a girl! – and more exclusive focus on the medicalization of our bodies instead of, like, our humanity, or maybe the subject’s career.
There’s even plenty of the whole “trans people are deceitful” thing peppered throughout the article. In a description of Lea T.’s presentation Margolis points to her hands and voice because they, “belie the angel’s tableau.” I don’t care how many pretty words you use, what you mean is her deception. By which you mean her female-ness is a lie. By which you suck.
The profile’s author is on Twitter @macmargolis if you’d like to explain gender to him. You can contact Newsweek here to let them know how you feel about this sort of uninformed, sensationalistic writing about trans folks.